Mobile Phone Booth...WTF #2: Human version

Since writing the original mobile phone booth post, I've been informed of another interesting solution in place in Bolivia.

"Here's a mobile phone booth in the main square of La Paz. The bloke in the green jacket has a mobile and the behatted native aymara woman is about to pay him to use it!"

Muay Thai Boxing + Ladyboy Show

The other night, we went along to a Muay Thai Boxing event in Chiang Mai with some Americans we have been bumping into since around a week ago. It seemed a great idea- I mean what double date involves International Boxer, Championship Boxer, Lady Boxer, Gambling Max and Cabaret Show!

Early on there were some younger and less pro boxers on stage giving it their all. Of the first 3 fights, one guy got concussed, another looked like he broke a rib thanks to a well timed knee. The third fight contained some very young fighters (pictured). We asked how old they were- the answer, 13. The one in blue shorts was short on reach, but not on skill and courage. He lost, but it was a tough 5 rounds.

The stakes were raised for the last fight- thats a 120 Baht ($3) purse!

Our guy (red shorts, awesome abs) struggled early, but as we saw all night the first round meant next to nothing and endurance was the key. He (just) took it out after it went the distance.

And Sarah's favourite part of the night, a Ladyboy Cabaret show. Bizarre.

My Watch Can Do Multiplication

Welcome to the 21st Century everybody.

It can also do addition, subtraction and division. Awesome. Can Yours?

Tuk-Tuk Troubles

The other day we went off on a trip to a waterfall in Luang Prabang with some guys we met in Vang Vieng. It should have been a quick ride but almost as soon as it began it seemed doomed. The engine took anywhere between 5-20 goes to start (and we stopped for fuel, and stalled it a couple of times). We then got stuck and had to push it past some muddy patched. We eventually got there and the driver (and 2 of his friends he had happened to pick up on the way) assured us he'd be there to pick us up later in the day.

3:30 PM and we met him as he'd said. I was a bit surprised to see him there, but we had only paid him half his wage.

3:40 PM We got bogged again and tried pushing it up a slope. Sarah stood with the other girls and took a photo or two. N.B. Even Sam, far-right, just eclipsed by Gaz, was pushing despite his broken toe. He was a lot more hesitant about getting it dirty/wet earlier in the day, then a few of the guys fell into the river when a bamboo bridge snapped, and I guess he gave up trying.



We made it up, but the gearbox was screwed... or something. When the driver wanted us to push it on the flat part of the track, we knew something was wrong. So while he again assured us he'd fix it in 5, we started walking.



4ish- A nice (and now 100,000kip/$12-richer) truck driver allowed us to hop in and turned around and hooned back to Luang Prabang. Not an entirely comfortable journey, but a fast one.

Taking Photos in Ban Nam Li

Yesterday, from Luang Nam Tha we went on a 2 day trek to vist an 'Akha' village along the river Li. The kids in the village were the most excited to see us- their shouts of "Sabaidee!" were loud as soon as we were visible to them 250m down the track. We were asking politely before asking any photos but before I even asked these kids took out their cameras and started snapping away at me. When we ate a meal with the chief of this 54-family village he told us about the difficulty of relocating to outside the Nam Ha National Park in April 2007. One of the positives with the new less-remote location is that none of the children had ever seen a 'falang' (literally 'French person', but used for all foreigners) before and now they all are comfortable with (but still intrigued by) us. They also have security of being within 1 day of the hospital, unlike the 3-day trek required in the past. Bundled with this is still the hard call about the impact on their culture that we, the annoying falang, with our plastic cameras, pathetic malaria-susceptible bodies and teeth-destroying lollies have. For now, there is a happy medium.

Sarah asked one woman for a photo, she declined (as Sarah would have I would think, in the same position) but this woman was intrigued by the camera and, after a bit of a play with it, she let Sarah snap her and her children.


I just had to include this one of our 7hr trek to get there. I think I slipped on every step of that slope.

Mobile Phone Booth...WTF?

Mobile Phone Booth may sound like an oxymoron at first, yes? Well not in Cambodia. We're actually in Laos at the moment but I have been meaning to write about this minor part of the Cambodian city life for a while.

The ubiquitousness of mobile phones has obviously been a major factor in the now-insignificant state of public phone booths in Australia. I still recall a lot of annoying complaints from people about them not being there when people really need them- perhaps referencing their higher use among the elderly and underprivileged (or perhaps emergency needs) to gain support. Any argument on that side would quickly be dealt with by printing statistics of the number of vandalised phone booths compared to the number of calls actually made on them. Quite easy to argue that a mobile network makes the public phone booth obsolete, yes?

Cambodia has a clever way to have both. While travelling around numerous towns we saw a number of these little phone-booth like boxes (and they aren't bigger on the inside, doctor). But no phone is visible, so what are they? On closer inspection, most contain a phone number stuck on the outside, a phone charger or two and not much else. The deal is that the booth belongs to a nearby shop owner, who provides their phone at a (bartered) fee, or you can plug in a (battery-exhausted) compatible phone if you like. The shop owner gets all the proceeds from the booth, so they will ensure it is maintained. Any vandalism is cleaned up by them. Finally, the brilliance of the market economy (and not talk-back radio callers) will limit the number of these around the place, as shop-owners won't bother to have them out there if they are rarely used.

Weird Stuff #2

So people have been telling me that the western world is speeding past me as I sit in Laos, a relatively quiet and peaceful country. However, I can tell you without doubt that Laos is a happening place too! I hear Australia just got the Apple iPhone? Well, here in Laos they have had the iPhone for ages. Not just one version, but 4 are available at this store:


They still know about The Olsen Twins. At a 300 year old sacred temple in Vientiane, the capital of Laos I was able to purchase these 2 dolls of them in attractive army fatigue.


Laos' favourite Beer, 'Beer Lao' is actually really good- and longnecks are around US$1. They also do a pretty good dark ale. It is without doubt, "Full of Taste.. Full of Strength".



They also have a fantastic and very progressive travel agent that understands each traveller's specific needs...


OK OK, so it is obvious by now that I was going to write a completely different and interesting post but ran out of time, as usual. In case any of you give me crap, I have purchased this T-Shirt, which I found in a shopping mall in Vientiane.

The CB Radio Lives On!

Since picking up a few antique copies of CB Radio enthusiast magazines a while back, I've been mildly interested in what happened. Like the thriving metropolis of Atlantis, what happened to the long lost CB Radios that were so useful once? Well, apparently the Cambodians still love them. As proof- there's a photo I snapped of some roadside advertising. The other day we were booking a bus from Battambang to Phnom Penh and what do you know- the (loose term used here) travel-agent whipped out his trusty CB radio and booked us in. Maybe he was affected by the hot ladies.

An Advertisement for Pheng

Sarah and I had a sad moment on Sunday as we had our last tuk-tuk drive with Pheng. Driving in Siem Reap is like robin williams- sometimes hilarious but always hairy. Pheng was great because, unlike other (car/scooter/tu-tuk) drivers we've seen and experienced first hand, he didn't beep constantly just to get others out of the way to get places faster- he did it for safety sometimes too! But seriously, he made us feel so comfortable on the roads, gave us cool water far more often than he needed to and was just an all-round nice guy.

He doesn't speak English fluently but he can more than get by with his vocabulary and listens intently. When we left him he gave us this (hand-written) card:

Email: typheng220@yahoo.com
Phone number: (855: 092815384)
My name is PHENG I'm a driver in Siem Reap Angkor Cambodia

If anyone is checking out the Angkor sites, drop him a line.

Weird Stuff #1

After a week or so in Cambodia, we've seen a lot of weird stuff. Here are the results of occasions where we had the good combination of seeing something odd and having my camera with me.

Apparently wrestlers make awesome bakers. Sarah says he is more of a superbaker... or something.

It is great to arrive in a foreign country and see your name... or close enough anyway. Welcome, LACHLA MEFAR LANE!

Happy Herb Pizza- 1 thing to note in Cambodia is that the adjective 'happy' when describing food means a certain happy herb can be added upon request.

All of the buildings in Siem Reap,some of them 4 or 5 storey resorts, are built using the same type of bamboo scaffolding. Workers comp, anyone?

Restoring Angkor

Hi, my name is Suryavarman the 2nd and I work at Angkor Temples. At Angkor we take $40 for your 3 day pass because we really need lots of money to restore these sites to the majestic beauty they were in thousands of years ago. Please consider we need to spend around $25 on corruption so that we can keep the park. So really we only ask for $15 from you for restoration purposes.

When we took over the conservation of the many temples in Angkor, some were nearly falling over. We took some sections apart block by block, labelled them and were planning to put them back together as soon as possible. Many non-profit organisations have been helping us with this project, because, as I said, we always need more money. For some towers it was useful to set up a solid base before re-placing the pieces on top. We also need the money to pay for a lot of gasoline to make electricity. Extension cords are also expensive, see!


Like most puzzles, we didn't know what to do with lots of them.


So we laid them all out on the ground, hoping that would help. We also tried starting with the corner pieces. This helped a lot.


I think we do a good job because people come from far and wide to see our temples. I hope you will come one day too. If you do, you want tuk-tuk ride? I take you all around for good price. Free water.

Arrival at Siem Reap, Cambodia

So Sarah and I have done the airport thing for 20 hours or so and arrived in Cambodia. After deciding to fork out a bit extra and go for the ultra-reliable Australian icon Qantas (over its obesity-promoting, food and drink-hustling, younger sibling Jetstar) we were of course hit by the recent Qantas strikes. However, it turned out for the better by a long shot as our Bangkok Air connecting flight from Bangkok --> Siem Reap wasn't until 8am and the 4 hour delay in Sydney shortened our freezing, sleepless and boring time in Bangkok airport by about half. If we had stayed longer, I may have been able to see BBC's report on the algae in china's olympic sailing location a 43rd time.

Anyway, as I was writing, we survived our time in what must be the world's cleanest, coldest and most boring airport, arriving in cambodia on Thursday morning. After getting our visa (this involves paying your money and watching your passport get passed down a chain of around 10 different officials (they are officials because they are wearing general-style uniforms with awesome shoulder pads) eventually being stamped and having your name called a la price is right. Except of course less Larry Emdur, more Stephen Hawking-level of speech clarity. We were driven to our awesome guest house, had a bit of a rest and wander, then headed in for the Angkor sunset. These guys know what the tourists do around here and will plan tours for you day after day if you'll let them. Just walk down the street at any time of day and a local (or as he would like to call himself 'driver/tour-guide') will offer his services for the next month- by saying, "You want tuk-tuk? No? Tomorrow? I take you around tomorrow all day?". So they know their stuff, and they knew we would want to see the sunset at a particular temple. We were expecting craploads of tourists, and we were all there together- armed and ready with our cameras.

Sunset. The view from the side: amusing.


The view ahead: still stunning.


The 2nd day we headed out with our trusty tuk-tuk driver Phaing to some of the recommended sites- Angkor Thom, Angkor Wat, etc. etc. They were even more impressive than my expectations, in particular the Bayon temple in Angkor Thom. Still lots of tourists there, but most of them stay on the strict in-and-out path that their tour guide and or group are on. We took some great opportunities for some off the beaten track shots by ourselves.
Some shots from Bayon:

Phaing has been fantastic- dropping us off, then finding us when we can't find his trusty machine amongst the others. When we do find each other, he's always there with the polite words, "Have you been finding me long?"

We're going for another trip with Phaing tomorrow, so I better get away from this machine even though I have much more to write on the effort to get up the stairs in the highest temple, the amazing restoration work, and hilarious temple-side sellers saying, "Australia? Your PM is Kevin Rudd OK you buy now?". Another day. Lachy.

It begins... before it even starts

We haven't even left yet and I'm already enjoying myself. I just received an email from our first hostel. The email was from 'Internet Software' (obviously known as 'Lee' to his friends).

It is hard reading this without either laughing, or thinking it is just another Nigerian scam.

from	internet software
to
date		Tue, Jul 1, 2008 at 2:11 AM
subject		RE: Hostel Booking- arrive 9am 3rd July
mailed-by		hotmail.com

HI THERE

The room is available,

Thank you very much for your reply and confirmed that very kind of you

Yes, I will arrange my staff go to pick up you ,so when you arrived at the

airport you will see my staff hold your name at there with cold drink and

you will get other welcome drink ice lemon tea and free 20minuts massage

for well come at the hotel .

looking forward to see you on 3rd July .

Have a great day.

Best regards.
LEE.
Manager.

13 Tips for backpacking in an Asian country

As I'm about to head off on a Cambodia, Laos and Thailand sojourn, a well-travelled friend generously came up with some tips and tricks. I found them humourous and informative, so perhaps the world of the internets will too.

1) As I already told you - don't eat at a restaurant without anybody else in there. Either go to a place full of Asians (where the food will be nice) or a place full of Westerners (where it'll be easier to order). This way u don't end up in a dirty Thai hospital like me. Also, when eating at Asian place (which is definitely the way to go) - just look at what other people are eating that looks nice and say "i want the same". Easy.

2) When random people approach you on the street (it'll happen about every 5 - 10 mins), it's 98% likely they are either trying to sell you something or rip you off. This is particularly so if they start the conversation by "Hello. Welcome to Cambodia. Where are you from?". Even if they talk to you for 20 mins about nothing in particular, they will still offer you something at some stage. Best way to deal with this is what i call the "walk and smile" rule. Needs two people. Whoever is closest to the person bugging you, that person smiles and engages in very brief chit-chat. The other person says nothing, and keeps walking at the same pace.... and kinda motions to the first person to keep up (ie. arm around the shoulder). This works great - you don't look rude, just in a hurry, and normally they don't follow for too long.

3) When you approach a random person in the street, 98% of the time they are friendly and genuine and won't try to sell you something. So if you need help, don't ask the guy who is offering help - ask someone else.

4) Always ask the price first (goes for taxis, food, board, drinks, anything). Saves you getting ripped off later. (and it's very hard to barter after the service has already been provided).

5) Always ask to see the room before you pay money for it. Check the mattress (look under the sheets. If there's specks of blood, there might be bed bugs). Check the toilet flushes, lights work, window closes, etc.

6) Dogs. They are everywhere and avoid them!! I've met quite a few Asian dogs that fucking hate westerners. I don't know why.

7) Monkeys. Same deal. Don't approach them. You'll see other stupid westerners try to feed/pat them - and if you watch long enough they'll get bitten/scratched and it's really funny.

8) Water. Don't drink it (derrrr......). Don't even brush your teeth with it. Don't order drinks that come with ice. If you really paranoid, don't eat uncooked veg/salad - because it's probably been washed in dirty water. Also "fresh juices" can sometimes contain water.

9) Dairy. Don't drink it. It's often unpasteurised etc. Also Asian fridges have an uncanny ability to just stop working for hours/days at a time.

10) You'll probably be offered dirty rice wine at the strangest of times. Drink it!

11) You'll soon work out there are certain "backpacker routes" that tour operators work and most tourists follow - these include buses, hotels and restaurants all owned by the same group. Normally you'll buy a bus tix, then that bus will drop u at "recommended hotel", which will have its own tour agency, and when you buy next bus tix, it'll drop you off at next "recommended hotel". Nothing wrong with this - but it's very difficult to get off the beaten track this way. It's definitely more fun to just tackle it yourself - catch local buses, find your own accom.

12) If Asian man approaches you outside a tourist site and says it's closed because of public holiday / construction works / the weather - he is most probably lying and just wants to get you in his taxi.

13) Bartering. It's the Asian way. Offer them what you think its worth (pay no attention to their first price). This could be half what they offered, could be 5% of what they offered. They'll look offended, yell, laugh, whatever - but they'll definitely say no. Walk away. If your price had any merit they'll call you back and offer u something else. I've once done the "walk away" 4 times to get the price i wanted. If they don't call u back, just go to the next store selling the same shit and try again - probably with a slightly raised first offer.

Oh and final tip: u will get ripped off at some point. don't let it get u too pissed off (I often don't follow this rule, and get pissed off anyway).

Buying a cheese knife

A friend of mine is a bit too 20th century and doesn't have a blog as a brain-tap when he needs to get rid of some cerebral baggage. Therefore, I'm posting this email on my blog without his consent. Luckily he has just worked out email so is unlikely to know how to find this for at least a few years.

The following are unnecessary items that I've never wanted before: a cheese knife, a neck pillow and a scarf.

Let's start with the cheese knife. A cheese knife is someone's way of telling their dinner guests they are too good for plastic-wrapped cheese slices. They are seriously one of the most underemployed items in the kitchen, right up with popcorn makers, bread machines (after the first two weeks) and dessert forks. Their entire purpose is absurd and they should be moved out of shops and on to 2am television where Chef Tony and his infomercial buddies can pimp them to gullible suckers. "So Tony, this knife can both cut AND serve the cheese. Amazing."

I will get the following specialised knives before I consider buying a cheese knife: dim sim knife, crepe blade and chicken schnitzel with mushroom sauce dagger. Until then I will continue to struggle through life using a butter knife, which coincidentally is the product most identical to cheese.

Moving on. When I see a man with a neck pillow I see a man who has lost the will to live. A pillow for your neck? Seriously. I'm sure they are amazingly comfortable, making long journeys pass effortlessly; that doesn't make them ok. I'm sure you can get some damn comfortable swastika-emblazoned Nazi pillows, but I won't be buying them either. I bet Hitler had a neck pillow.

No, I'm content to roll up my jacket, lean uncomfortably against the window and wake up two hours later with a zip imprint in my face and severe neck pain. That's how bus travel is meant to be.

Scarves are the foreskin of the clothing world. Not useful, a bit funny looking with the sole purpose of keeping your head warm. Now I'm not opposed to them on any deep level, they just don't seem all that functional.

So why am I entering the scarf owning community, you ask. Let me explain. I've just finished an overseas holiday and like to think that I travel well - adapting to local cultures and traditions. If I moved to Holland within a week I would be wearing clogs and sniffing tulips to a backdrop of windmills. A month in Scotland would see me riding the Loch Ness monster while wearing a kilt and playing 'Oh wee white rose of Scotland' on the bagpipes.

So I thought why not take the same approach for my impending move to Melbourne. Bring on the trams, the footy and the moccacino-frappe-lattes (half skim, half soy). When in Rome, do as the Romans. When in Melbourne, get yourself a scarf.

Oh, but if I ever move to Bega I'm still not buying a bloody cheese knife.

(More) 1970s women with CB Radios

And to think I was under the impression they were only popular with obese truckies.
'Zine review here.